A couple of weeks ago my dear friend and fellow cooking aficionado Jennifer came out for a visit with her children. Instantly it occured to me to make spring rolls because I have a great abundance of basil and the kids usually love them. Going with the Asian theme I wanted to make something with rice noodles. When I visit Jennifer at her house in Austin, if we don’t feel like cooking we usually pick up food from Hao Hao, a great Vietnamese restaurant close to her house. The favorite dish of the kids is Pho Ga, a fragrant, aromatic chicken broth with chicken meat, rice noodles, and fresh raw vegetable accompaniments. Searching around the internet I found a recipe on the Steamy Kitchen blog, which referred me back to the source recipe on Viet World Kitchen. My recipe is a slight variation on those two.
When my broth had simmered for a bit, and I tasted it for the first time, I was so excited I both emailed Jennifer and called Zane. “It tastes just like at Hao Hao! It’s divine!”
Photos from the feast:
The makings for the spring rolls - 4 kinds of basil from the garden (lime, cinnamon, Thai, and sweet), mint from the garden, cilantro, Boston lettuce, and dried wrappers.

The tray of finished rolls:

The spread:

Lily, Nicole, and Olivia digging in:

Pho Ga
The other recipes both called for fish sauce, but I didn’t have any so I used salt instead. They also both call for rock sugar but regular seemed to work just fine. I used extra chicken legs to enrich the broth instead of necks, backs, etc. because the price difference was minimal and I think using the meatier legs add more flavor. I think the use of sweet onions is important, but I will admit I am extremely partial to the Texas 1015’s and buy them by the 5 lb bag this time of year.
Broth:
1 whole chicken, plus 4 chicken leg quarters
2 whole sweet onions - I use Texas 1015’s
1 2 inch long hunk of fresh ginger
4 whole cloves
1 whole star anise
3 TB whole coriander seeds
1 bunch fresh cilantro
2 TB sugar
2 TB salt
First char the unpeeled onion and ginger. Ideally use a grill or gas burner if you have them available, I put both in a roasting pan under the broiler. Grill or broil until the skin starts to blacken, turning frequently to get an even char. In my case the ginger skin never blackened but it was bubbling and the ginger had softened a bit underneath. The onion should also feel softer under the charred skin. When done in the broiler, this makes your house smell amazing. Let the onion and ginger cool enough to handle, then remove all the charred and uncharred skin gently, with your fingers or a knife. Rinse off any remaining charred bits, if necessary.
Toast the spices. Put the cloves, star anise, and coriander in a dry non-stick skillet, and heat on medium, stirring frequently, until it starts to smell fragrant. Take off heat and transfer to a bowl to cool.
Remove all the leaves from the coriander, rinse and dry (I use a salad spinner), and set aside for an accompaniment to add later (and to use in spring rolls). Rinse the stems and tie into a bundle with twine.
Meanwhile, rinse the chicken, put all the chicken in a large pot, and cover with water. Bring to a rolling boil, then reduce heat so it stays at a lightly rolling boil. Skim all foam as it rises to the surface until there isn’t any more foam rising, this can take up to 20 minutes. When there isn’t any more foam rising, or only very little, reduce heat so that it’s simmering gently, and add the onion, ginger, toasted spices, cilantro stems, sugar, and salt.
After the chicken has simmered for ~40 minutes total, remove the whole chicken and 2 whole legs. When just cool enough to handle, cut the breasts off the whole chicken and set aside with the removed whole legs. Put the remainder of the whole chicken back in the broth pot. Continue simmering the broth until the chicken has simmered a total of ~2 hours.
When the soup is cool enough, strain it. I like to refrigerate overnight and remove the fat at the surface the next day, but you could skim it off when warm instead.
Soup Assembly:
1 package rice noodles (I used thin vermicelli style, but a flatter shape is more traditional)
Reserved chicken
Broth
Cook the rice noodles according to the package directions in a separate pot. Drain. I put the rice noodles in a basin of water to keep them from sticking together until ready to use.
Remove the leg meat from the bone, and shred or chunk all the meat. You will likely have more than you need, save the rest for chicken salad. I like having both dark and white meat available for different tastes, but if you know your family only likes one or the other don’t bother removing both when making the broth. I keep the meat on the bone until ready to serve because as Andrea Nguyen notes, this keeps it more succulent.
When ready to serve, drain the noodles. Add noodles to each bowl, then chicken chunks, then pour over hot broth. Serve at the table with accompaniments.
Accompaniments:
Bean sprouts, washed and dried
Onion, thinly sliced - either red onion, sweet onion, or green onion
Jalapeño, thinly sliced
Lime wedges
Cilantro leaves, reserved from earlier
Basil leaves
Mint leaves
Pass around the accompaniments for people to add to their hot soup as they desire.